Does anyone know what might cause this? It's rafted to the bed so not moving at all, belt seems tight. I checked all the bolts and rollers seem good. I'm not sure what axis is shifting, but my assumption is the Y since its shifts backwards on the Y axis I printed a collapsible katana that goes up pretty high with no issues previously, granted its not nearly as wide I pulled it off the bed and took the picture of it sideways so you can see the shift better so that shift on the left in the pic is actually the top and the shift seems to shift further backwards on the Y as it goes higher.
Friction normally hold it in place but high accelerations might move the wheel to one end or the other. The solution is to dismantle them and but a small amount of glue on the "bearing" surface in the wheel.
No need for any fancy type of glue but it should be firm when hardened. I gave them a quick look closer and I dont see any play but I will further inspect closer. As i said everything I printed prior to this helmet have been sub 10 hour prints and none of them had any issues. I used this same slice on my Ender 3 with no issue so im pretty confident it isnt the slicer either. Really weird. You only feel the shift in the v-wheels if you remove them but yours might be ok.
Maybe the THUD you hear is a motor skipping due to high load on the y-motor? If you home Y then it will continue the print in the right place. Printing slower, lower acc and lower jerk will probably mask the problem so that you can finish the print. I dont know whats happening but it seems like it would JOLT forward after a certain part, but not every time and not in any sort of interval or calculatable time, just random.
I actually tried slowing it down from 60 to 40 and it still did it. I adjusted the jerk in another slice but i havent tried yet as that was another idea i had.There have been a few dozen reports on forums, reddit, and our communities about issues with the Y layer losing steps and shifting on the CR machines. Mainly on the S4 and S5 machines. This can happen on stock machines and modified ones running the Unified Firmware. Filter by categories Clear Results Customer Service.
Community Information. Shipping Questions. STL Files. Unified 1 Firmware. Unified 2 Firmware. Community Guides. DIY Guides. Wiring Information. Product Information. All Other Products. Dual Z Kits. EZBoard Lite V1. LCD Screens. Power Supplies. Wiring Info. Advanced Setup. Creality Boards. MKS Boards. DIY Firmware. Customer Service. Y Layer Shifting on Your Printer. Created: January 22, MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies, allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.
What the heck is happening. After 5 hours it seems the glogal layer map has shifted 3 times over the bed. Any hint anyone? How's your belt tension? Pulleys tight on stepper shafts? Belts worn? I'd look for mechanical issues first and foremost. I dont think the Y axis is tight enough at one end the belt is not right in the center.
But i can t figure out how to tighten it. Losen the 4 screws, 2 left, 2 right, at the idler wheel. Pull it to increase tension. Dont pull to much!
Slightly tighten one screw on one side and then move the bed.
Whatch for the belt to stay in the middle of the idler wheel when moving all the way forward and backward. If it is changing sides from left to right while moving forward or backward you need to adjust the idler wheel hilder on the side which is still not tighten.
Lets say the left side is already fixed: if you move the bed towards your end and thw belt is moving to the left side of the idler, push the right side of the holder sheet metal away from yourself. If the belt is moving to the right then you need to pull the right side towards yourself a little. I usually use a alen key and stick it between the idler shaft and the aluminium profile to pull it outwards. For the other direction soft hits with the shaft of a screwdriver should do the job.
This beeing said, I dont belive that belt tension is your problem. Please check for excessive traveling speed settings. Also please check the integrity of your memory card in case you one for printing. Eg try to open the gcode file on the card with a text editor. I had a similar print when my sd card was defect. I needed to format the card to solve the issue and bought a new one later. I feel your print is nearly out of control. It seems that there could be bigger issues. I tryed to write a comment yesterday, saying that I believe your hot end has a block.At first I tried to remedy this by reducing acceleration settings in the slicing software and this did help, but it wasn't a complete cure.
I also checked the grub screws on the motor pulley, guide rollers and belt tension to make sure it was not too loose nor tight. The problem continued. With a 5mm steel under-carriage, 4mm heated bed as well as a 4mm removable top plate there is plenty of inertia to this assembly and the motor is pretty small.
While the power supply has plenty of capacitance energy storage for immediate short term power delivery with uF sitting on the output, the PCB housing the stepper drivers does not only uF bulk capacitance on-board. I wondered if the stepper driver may be momentarily starved of current if the heated bed happens to switch on relay temperature controlled at the same time the stepper driver makes a high current demand.
I quickly found an alternative NEMA 17 motor which has 0. This higher spec is backed up by the fact the motor has a slightly longer body, but will still fit inside the CR10S Pro case.
I've heard people talk of upgrading the motors with an aim to be smoother and more silent. That is not the goal here, I want reliability and speed. I was tempted to go for an even more powerful 65NM motor and could have, but the body was too long to fit in the case so would require a hole cutting in the bottom.
The CR10S Pro rubber feet would still have kept the motor from touching the table top but I didn't want to cut a hole in the case. I bought it on eBay. I am not recommending this motor specifically, but at least you could follow the same wiring pattern if you use it. To drive the more current hungry 2A motor, we need to tweak the current limit on the stepper driver.
Downloading the datasheet we see right in the headline specs that it can support up to a 2A motor. TMC Driver Datasheet. Take the belt off the motor pulley. Just pull it upwards and turn the pulley. The belt will progressively ride off the pulley.
Now flip the printer and unscrew the base panel. To connect the new motor, first we need to identify the wires of the driver output.
There are 4 wires and they should be paired to a coil in the motor. It's possible as described below to figure out the correct wiring, but don't worry too much if it seems confusing I struggle to explain it because if you get it wrong either the motor won't turn, or it will just turn in the wrong direction.
If it doesn't turn, you have two positives on one coil and two negatives on the other coil.Facebook Group. Belt tensioning self. How tight should the belts be? How often should I check 'em? Do you just ballpark the tension or is there a way to be precise about it? When you pluck them they should produce a nice bass note, I check them every few days and before a large print.
You should be able to get your finger underneath the belt without it being pinched. Make sure when you move the carriage back and forth that you track the belt though. The belt should be relatively straight and if not you may have to go underneath the carriage and bring one of the fightings closer or further away to make it a straight line.
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Use Search before asking the same question that has been asked over and over again. This includes sale posts. No illegal topics for example pirated software, sharing paid STL files, etc. Welcome to Reddit, the front page of the internet. Become a Redditor and join one of thousands of communities. CR10 submitted 3 years ago by Zumaki. Want to add to the discussion?
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If scores are level after 18 holes then bets will be made void. Match Play MarketsIf a match does not start (e. Bets on markets that can be settled by using the official tournament and match results (including final match correct score and individual match betting) will be settled using those results. This includes where a match finishes early either by agreement of the players or through injury. Match Winner (2-Way) is settled on the winner including any extra holes played.
In the event of a tie, bets on the Match Winner (2-Way) will be void. Match Result (3-Way) and Winning Margin do not include extra holes if played. Specifically for Winning Margin and Last Hole Played markets, if a match finishes before the completion of the stated number of holes, bets will be settled on the official result. Bets will be void if a player withdraws at a point in the match where the result is still to be determined. The number of holes remaining is greater than or equal to the score at the time of withdrawal.
For the Last Hole Played market, if a player withdraws after the 16th hole when the match is tied or after the 17th when a player leads by 1, then the Last Hole played is settled as Hole 18, since any natural conclusion to the match would require the 18th hole to be played. If the number of rounds played is reduced, e. If a player is disqualified or withdraws after starting prior to the completion of two rounds then the other player is deemed the winner.
In the Presidents Cup, To Lift Trophy (without the Tie option), dead-heat rules will apply. Singles MatchesIf an individual match-up ends in a tie then bets will be void. Golf SpecialsWinning Score - Settlement will be upon the completion of 72 holes (or 90 for tournaments where applicable) otherwise bets are void.
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